I have just received my copy of Lucky Peach, a new quarterly from the minds of Chef David Chang of Momofuku fame, writer Peter Meehan and the folks from Zero Point Zero Productions. If you have not read this amazing journal, and you like food, you need to get a copy. It is the best food writing I have read in a long time, maybe ever. The first issue is all about ramen. I love ramen. Suddenly, I need ramen. I think it is a heritage thing, those pesky ancestors of mine driving me to the noodle. Sadly there are no good ramen shops near home; I am left to my own devices, this is never good. But, there is often good food.
The fat was skimmed, reheated with some more bacon (man gotta eat breakfast) and then the fat was turned off and 3 teaspoons of curry powder and some slivered garlic was added. This was allowed to cool. I will toss a teaspoon or so of this with the ramen noodles just after boiling.
Shiitake mushrooms were rehydrated and added to about 1/2 cup of the brisket broth, a shot of sherry, 1/8 cup of shoyu, 1 tablespoon of sugar and a few shots or so of fish sauce. This was reduced by half to create a thick syrup. This would be my tare.
Next, I purchased some fresh ramen noodles. But, next time, I will make them from the recipe in Lucky Peach. Some vegetables were procurred as well. One can't just eat fat and meat and expect good results, you need some fiber.
And you might say, it is a mish mash of styles and what of this fish sauce stuff. Well, of late, I have been giving a great deal of thought to the idea of authenticity, of what really defines a cuisine and how it "should" taste. I know of no other style of cooking than to take the best of what I have, to cook with it, to make good food. It is authentic to me, it is authentic to this place and time. Will you find this dish in Hiroshima, or Ibaraki, or Gifu, where my family hails from, I doubt it. But, I bet folks there would have enjoyed this bowl.